One of the great moves to have in your trick book is the upwind 360. It may not impress the tourists on the beach, but all your buddies on the beach will be quietly impressed by this unassuming technical trick. The UW360 feels great when you perfect it and opens the door to Flakas on flat water and the Takas in the waves, it really is a must have move when you start your freestyle journey.

Upwind 360:

• Sail across the wind and lean the sail to the back of the board. LOOK in the direction you want to go. As the sail goes back transfer your weight onto your heels, driving the board into the wind.
• When you are dropping the sail back remember to move your hands down the boom. Moving your hands along the boom is important - YOUR HANDS ARE NOT SUPER GLUED TO THE BOOM – the boom is how you control the power.
• The board will then start to carve into the wind. Try to get as far round as possible. As the board speed reduces start to transfer all your body weight from your heels onto your toes. Now the board speed has reduced lean forward bringing the rig with you. Slide your hands down the boom. Remember we are always counter balancing our weight against the rig, so rig forward weight back.
• As the rig slices forward you are aiming to push the mast through the eye of the wind. Do not push with your back hand we are trying to keep the sail neutral. The boom should end up tucked under your arm.
• Now the sail is neutral, so here comes the tricky part. Your front hand controls the turn your backhand the power.
• Front hand – as you slice the sail forward, if you want the board to turn push the front hand in the you want to go, but remember to be gentle.
• If it’s windy, to control the power extend your front hand down lower to the water pull in with your back hand, this will depower the sail (the dry humping effect)
• As the nose of the board starts to turn in the direction you want to go, you will end up in the back winded position, so remember your power control that dry hump, slowly feel the board in the direction you want to go with your front hand when the board is sat on a bored reach or a run your ready to pop the clue through!
• To pop the clue through, you do this wait for the nose of the board to point down wind. As soon as this happens we move our weight from your toes to our heels. As the clue goes through we must be prepared to handle the power in the sail. So, get back onto your heels. When the clue goes through keep your back hand down this will also help to handle the power.
• Now sail away.

More hints and more tip can be found on the windsurfcoaching.com blog and websites.
Message our facebook page and we will reply with solutions to your problems, or by the DVD – Go Pro with Colin and Marco.

Where To Go To Progress Your Freestyle

So, whatever your freestyle level there is a lot to be learning towards the end of summer and even more places to venture to as this the season continues.

Check out the full Boardseeker Summer Special for all the places to travel and info on how to arrange your perfect windsurfing holiday.

Another destination we recommend, especially as a year round location, is Club Dahab which is located on the stunning windy shores of the Red Sea. It offers over 300 days of force 4+ a year and is proud to be the only British centre in Dahab, and the only one offering inclusive rental and tuition with Club Vass top instructors. Just a short haul flight away, it’s ideal for a quick ‘fix’ any time of the year, with many flight options.

The centre commands a prime beach position, with easy access to all sailing spots and it’s the only place rocking the unique Club Vass vibe!

Club Vass Hot Shot Pip Pardoe has moved on to Club Dahab for the windy season to join Luke and the team. Pip has proved to be a huge star at Club Vassiliki, pulling off some of the biggest moves, he is Mr Motivator!

And there are some great deals for Autumn 2012. W/C 15th September through to W/C 13th October only £349 for 1 week!
(Price includes: Airport transfer, accommodation at the Ganet Sinai, half-board meal plan, tuition with top instructors, unlimited use of windsurfing kit).

www.clubvass.com info@clubvass.com 0844 463 0191

The Clew First Beachstart / Waterstart Now that you are a waterstart master, it is time to take it to the next level and address getting up and away in a clew first style. This technique gives you another starting option and is very useful should you happen to fall mid gybe and manage to keep the rig flying.

FOUNDATION

It is a good idea to build up to clew first waterstarts by starting with deep water clew first beachstarts.

For the purposes of practicing clew first beachstarts, you will need to position your equipment into a clew first position.  One method for doing this is the DRY GYBE and is demonstrated in this video clip.

You can see that in waist deep water, the board is turned to the new tack whilst you walk around the back of the board and gain control clew first. Through steering with the rig in the beachstart position, the board can be taken through 180 degrees.

Once into the clew first position, the move can be broken into 3 key stages:

• Positioning – Keep the board off the wind
• Up and away – Getting on the board and continuing clew first
• Controlled exit – Sailing away clew first

PRACTICE

• Try controlling your sail in a clew first position on the beach before trying it on the water.
• Be competent in sailing in the clew first position before trying clew first beachstarts and waterstarts.  (We will be covering this technique in detail in a future issue but in the meantime, checkout FUNDAMENTALS for some pointers)

FUNDAMENTALS

Look where you want to go – As in the waterstart we are moving forward and in doing so, we look at the mast foot to get up and away.  In order to have a smooth controlled exit you will then be looking forward.

Rig away – In order to exit the water with a relatively less efficient rig (due to the clew first position) it is paramount to extend the arms.  The rig will continue being kept away in the controlled clew first exit. This will enable us to control its power in the unstable position, whilst clew first.

		POSITIONING
		With a wide hand spread the board is held downwind on a broad reach (keeping the board pointing downwind allows the sail to be controlled more easily). You are at the back of the board BUT well upwind of it.
		With your front foot on the bottom, your back foot is placed on the board. It is positioned between the straps,  just behind the front foot strap. The heel is placed to windward of the centreline in readiness for the foot straddling the centreline upon sailing away.
		UP AND AWAY
		Note the subtle shift of the back hand towards the mast in order to get the rig more upright. The board is pulled in with a bent back leg as the heel moves towards your bottom, whilst simultaneously extending the arms. To help you do this look at (and crouch towards) the mastfoot.
		Your clew hand will be extending and you can pull in with the mast hand for more power. Added upward propulsion comes from kicking with the extended front leg.
		The front foot will land on the board close to the mastfoot and pointing forwards.
		CONTROLLED EXIT
		Clew first control comes from sliding the back hand towards the clew, check out how far! You will be looking forwards and balancing the rigs power by keeping the rig away and sinking down.
		Looking to gain more control as the wind increases; body sinks lower and clew hand sheets in more. After sailing a moderate distance the rig is flipped whilst you keep looking forwards.  Check out the helicopter tackfor rig flip visuals and tips.
HOT TIPS Point board downwind to increase sail control Back hand moves towards the clew for control and towards the mast to get up and away Back leg to bum as arms extend Look at (and crouch towards) that mastfoot to get out of the water Once up, look forwards and keep the rig away Get low to control the power Flip rig and keep looking forwards

Terry Luxton K-688“The windier it gets, the more I put my back hand down the boom (towards the clew) to help me control the rig.”
Phil Horrocks K-303“Make sure that you learn this technique on both tacks.  A lot of people are very one-sided but this is a technique that is definitely worth learning on both tacks!”
Ben Proffitt K-800“Learning to clew first waterstart is a must for anyone learning to carve gybe!  When a gybe goes wrong, the rig often remains flying and a clew first waterstart gets you up and going again in no time!”

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/features/clew-first-beach-start-with-jem-hall/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe-video/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe-video/#comments Thu, 18 Oct 2012 14:37:30 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

Technique Jems – Duck Gybe Learn this oldschool yet stylish move.	Download Video: Win [4.26MB] Mac [4.6MB]

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe-video/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe/#comments Sat, 13 Oct 2012 14:37:30 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Duck Gybe Why should we duck gybe? Catch a glimpse of Francisco Goya or Robby Naish ripping through one and that is inspiration personified. The duck gybe can also be easier than carve gybes and will improve our general carving ability. It can also be built upon; ducking onto a wave, one-handed ducks, aerial duck gybes.   FOUNDATION You will need a good planing stance and to be carving through about 50% of your gybes. Having experience of ducking a rig from doing light wind freestyle will significantly increase the likelihood of successful completion. We can address the move by moving with efficiency through the key parts: Set-up – Unhooking and hanging off the boom whilst maintaining speed. Carving – Coming over the inside rail and carving the board smoothly and keeping up board speed. Ducking – Crossing over the hands and ducking the rig whilst keeping the board carving. Exit – Collecting the rig and tightening up the carve. PRACTICE Hanging off the boom and fast broad reach entrances to gybes. Ducking the sail on dry land in very light or no wind. Sail 360s on a floaty board in light winds. FUNDAMENTALS Rig away – maintaining this through the phases of setting up, carving and the exit will keep the board speed up as your weight will be on the rig and the board will be kept flat; another key fundamental. Look where you want to go – This really is the top tip of the move. We are looking downwind on the entrance. During the duck we are looking at the exit in order to smoothly take the board through the move and to the exit point of sail.       SET-UP Hang off the boom on spread extended arms keeping the rig away and body low. Go very broad to get board going really fast. This will lighten up the rig.   Come across into the carving position. Roll bodyweight across board as back arm pulls in and front arm extends, dropping over your toeside. Keep rig away. CARVING POP the board and you are aiming to throw the tail as far downwind as possible. TIP: look at mastfoot to KEEP YOU OVER THE BOARD.   DUCKING On a full broad reach now with a light rig. Front hand releases and crosses over to THE BACK OF THE BOOM, whilst back hand tilts rig towards nose of the board. Keep looking forward as back of boom comes to you     Concentrate on the duck as you whip the rig past your ear. The action is similar to wiping sweat from your brow. Sink down and start to focus on your exit.     Really look at your exit i.e. where you want to go, this is crucial to keeping the board carving. The whipping arm will have followed through and you are waiting to collect boom with the new front hand past the harness lines.   EXIT The rig has now been collected and your shoulders will be facing the rig whilst your lower body is finishing the turn off with your knees driving towards the water.     The rig is completing its transition by coming back towards the tail. The feet have switched out of their straps as in a step or strap gybe. Step or strap gybing your feet will depend on available power or your preference. If well powered and going fast than strapping is an option, less powered and needing to keep speed then step.     The carving pressure is now through the heels to bring the board across the wind. The rig is away on extended armsand you are looking forward to enable a planing exit.     Getting into your planing position, looking forward with a flat board and the rig away     View video of this move: Low bandwidth [MPEG, 0.4MB] High bandwidth [MPEG, 1.0MB]   Into the straps and away. The poor video man has been blinded by the glare off my head!   Unhook and hang Bear away heaps and then carve Cross front hand over to back of the boom and duck rig Look at exit as you collect rig Draw rig back as you carve off heelside Hang off rig and into planing / accelerating position     SUMMARY As you get through each attempt focus on the positive actions you have made. Concentrate on doing the fundamentals well. As each phase gets more efficient you will be moving closer to your final goal of jedi duck gybe master. FAULT ANALYSIS Here are some pointers should you be stacking it hard or enjoying quality time going out the front door and socialising with the milkman. Heavy and pulling rig – Go faster to get rig lighter, hang off the boom on extended arms and go broad. Mast hits water and front door exit – Get the rig lighter, GO FASTER. Or concentrate on tilting the rig forward to keep mast away from the water. Collecting the sail and getting it pulled out of your hands – Reach down the boom with the front hand going past the front harness line. Ensure rig completes transition by coming back towards tail. Visualise, believe, focus and enjoy!       Jamie Lever GBR-5 “Get your old front hand to the very back of the boom which saves you getting a face full of sail.”         Lucy Horwood GBR-95 “Make sure you bear right off and get speed before you try and duck the sail.”         Ben Proffitt K-800 “When you exit the duck gybe, you need to sheet OUT to get power. The tendency is to sheet IN which oversheets the sail and kills the power.”

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/duck-gybe/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/one-handed-sailing/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/one-handed-sailing/#comments Sun, 07 Oct 2012 14:37:31 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

1-Handed Sailing This month we are looking at our stance and specifically a drill to really improve it. Stance can be the root of our ills, or it can be the foundation of effective and efficient sailing. Having a good stance will enable us to control power in gusts and keep speed through lulls. The ability to blast fast whilst in control means we can: Have more speed for our transitions Get out on smaller kit Sail upwind faster Get out through waves easier Catch more waves Complete more moves in a session I hope you are now sold on tuning up that stance. Ooops, almost forgot, a fast stance will also mean you will overtake more people, most importantly your mates!   Foundation This drill can be practiced in winds from light to strong and whatever your ability. When I coach harness use for the first time I get people to do this drill. Initially there will inevitably be a bit of shakiness but after a few runs their stance is transformed into a solid and efficient position, where they are so much more resistant to those early intermediate catapults. Therefore, please do practice this move in light winds and also in planing conditions.  Fundamentals Lets look at the simple parts of our stance: Rig away – Keeping distance from the rig will get the mast upright and with your shoulders outboard we are more able to resist the sails power. This is typified by extended arms and pulling down on the boom. Flat board – This creates less drag and maintains your board speed. Your front leg is extended to lock the board down and the back leg is bent, from where you can raise or lower the hips Look where you want to go – Look forward and upwind for gusts. Look upwind to turn upwind and to get back in control. Look downwind to accelerate and turn downwind. Basically. WHERE YOU LOOK IS WHERE YOU GO. Power Control Lighter winds or lulls – Lift your hips and lock out with your upper body. This transfers the sails power through the board and will get the board flying. Push down through the toes to trim the board flat. Bringing the arms together can further exacerbate your distance from the rig. Stronger winds or gusts – Drop your hips to sheet the boom in more. Dig the heels in to control the windward rail, by lifting up on toes. Spread your arms slightly and pull down on the boom. If you can remember back to when you learnt to windsurf, your initial power control came through bending or straightening the back leg. Essentially you were lower or raising the hips – that’s it! In that time we might have forgotten how effective this is so lets keep it simple, raise the hips for less wind and drop them for more wind. In this sequence and the clip I am well powered on a 5.7 on a 110 freestyle board in choppy water. I am blasting comfortably with the board flat and rig upright.     From my stance I have dropped my front hand. This means I have to flatten the board by really extending the front leg and lock the windward rail down by lifting up on my toes. My back leg is very bent in order to drop my hips thereby sheeting the boom in, back and down. I am crunching my stomach to drive the board. The dropped front arm gives me lots of space and keeps the rig away and I have to get down.   Here I have moved inboards and over the board, the resulting control problems are evident. The windward rail has come up (poor tilt); the board is not flat longitudinally (poor trim). I am just too upright and the rig is not away. The way to check this is my head is now above boom height. A good stance comes from having your head often below boom height.   Back in control now. Head is looking forwards, arms are extended and pulling down on the boom. Board is flat. Essentially I am lower, and am more commited to the harness.  The stance I assumed whilst one handed is very similar to my stance now, it’s just that both hands are on the boom.         View video of this move: Low bandwidth [MPEG, 0.1MB] High bandwidth [MPEG, 0.3MB] Whether you are learning 1 handed back loops or taking your first steps into the harness, learning this move properly will do wonders for your sailing.     A Final Thought…. The results from this drill are awesome; it forces you to get lower.  If you get lower you go faster. I have got heaps of clients to do this and they find their stance much improved. It helps you to appreciate the body position required. There is also a certain realisation of the value of longer lines and their positioning on the boom. Next time you are in control and in conditions you can cope with get into this drill. Improvers will be readying themselves for more power. Intermediates will become more comfortable in their blasting. Advanced sailors will really increase their speed. Experts are setting up for all manner of one handed stunts – including one handed jumps and loops.

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/one-handed-sailing/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/hybrid-gybe/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/hybrid-gybe/#comments Fri, 05 Oct 2012 14:37:31 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

Hybrid Gybe This is not an altogether new way of gybing, but is the preffered RYA method of gybing a Hybrid board such as the RS:X and Techno One Design, in non-planing and semi-planing conditions. The idea is to keep the speed up in non-planing conditions whilst losing as little ground as possible. The foot change is done before the rig change and there is minimal movement of the back foot. It is the best way to turn a wide short board in non-planing/ semi planing conditions, so is also appropriate to big sail carrying short boards.   PRACTICE Dynamic steering – steering up and downwind by looking where you want to go and scissoring the legs. Clew first sailing – THE skill to have for gybing Whole move – use your big board and a small/medium sail to get used to the dynamics of the move. FUNDAMENTALS Look – look forward and downwind whilst bearing away and then look out of the turn at the mid point. Keep looking forwards throughout clew first sailing and whilst rotating the rig. Rig away – think rig forwards and body back and low throughout all stages. In the mid point the rig goes to the outside as the hips move to the inside to create a counterbalance Clew first sailing – THE prerequisite for gybing. Scissor the board – pushing through the foot and pulling with back foot in order to bear away. Who better to demonstrate this gybe, than Junior World Champion, Ali Masters.         BEARING AWAY With a bent back leg and a straight leading leg positioned near the mast foot, bear the board away by bringing your mast towards the water and pulling in with your backhand.  Keep holding this position until the board is pointing right off the wind.     With a wide stance and back foot towards the inside rail, gently keep sheeted in and bring the mast to the outside of the turn.     Start to bend the back leg into the turn and release pressure from front foot.     FOOT CHANGE & MID GYBE Keep back leg and foot in same position, and start to bring front foot to the back of the board     Place the new back foot in front of rear footstraps with heel towards the inside rail of board, start bringing the mast towards the back of the board and to the outside of the turn, as to steer the board clew first through the turn.     The feet are now in their new position, so it’s time to concentrate on the rig change. The lighter the winds, the further down the boom you need to put your hands.The rig is moving to the outside as the hips stay down to the inside whilst you LOOK OUT OF THE TURN.       Steer the board with your sail, and control the turn with pressure on your back foot (more pressure will tighten the turn).  Bending your knees will help apply more pressure to your toe-side. The more the rig goes to the outside (windward / your right in picture) the faster the board turns.     CLEW FIRST & RIG ROTATION Bring the sail across you to finish off the gybe. The board is kept flat and speed is maintained whilst you stay low in order to control and steer the board in its clew first position. LOOK FORWARD.       Move the front hand to the mast end of the boom, to ensure that the rig is kept upright through the rig flip.       Bring the front hand forward and across to the mast to ease the sail rotation. Rotate the rig by releasing the back hand and sweeping the sail back. With your front hand on the new side of the boom pull the rig forward to finish your gybe off, as your body moves back.       View video of this move: Download Video: Win [1.02MB] Mac [1.01MB] As you sail away get your hands back down the boom from where you can pump and get into a good stance. Nice one!     For more control and a tighter turn, try slowing your boardspeed down before initiating the gybe.

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/hybrid-gybe/feed/ 1 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/heli-tack-v2/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/heli-tack-v2/#comments Wed, 03 Oct 2012 14:37:31 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Heli-tack This is an excellent move to learn. Primarily, it is a very useful move, but it also has excellent skills transference to many other moves. So why do we do it? Its great in light winds and is often said to be easier than a regular tack when the board is going slow, eg. on the inside in waves. The move also retains power in the sail and, therefore, keeps the nose afloat, which is very handy on sinkier boards.   If you attain this move then it will significantly help you to improve or make tacks, gybes, carving 360s, trick gybes and spocks. The move has 3 phases and you should aim to acquire competence at each phase in order to ensure progression. We can also work towards successful completion by improving our FUNDAMENTALS, which will be covered in future articles. The phases are – Taking the board through the wind / Front to sail stability / Rig transition.         Take the board right through head to wind to a close reach on the new tack. Push with the back foot and pull with the front foot (FUNDAMENTAL). The rig is back and the body is forward and you are LOOKING FORWARD.         The rig comes across with the front arm extended and the back hand neutral i.e. NOT PUSHING, in order to fill the sail with wind on the new side. The weight is more over the front foot, keep LOOKING FORWARD.         At front to sail, you must now establish stability (FUNDAMENTAL). The rig is back and the body is forward with the front hand keeping the rig away and the back hand controlling the power. Your weight is on the toeside (TOP TIP). LOOK FORWARD to assess your point of sail. Your choice is to pause here briefly or sail a while front to sail but you must be stable.           The rig transitions by swinging around the nose. The board is flat and your weight moves more over the back foot as you resist the power by keeping the mast away. Your back hand will go well down the boom and will be drawn in (TOP TIP).           The rig is going around the nose as the feet change. This footwork is similar to the step gybe. The mast arm will bend to bring the rig back upright as it goes to leeward of the board. LOOK FORWARD           You can pause here or continue to flip the rig. Solid clew first sailing will greatly assist you here (FUNDAMENTAL). Keep LOOKING FORWARD and to assist the flip the mast hand can slide up (FUNDAMENTAL).           The rig continues its journey back as the body comes forward, keep LOOKING FORWARD. The feet are wide apart to keep you stable.           The rig comes forward and the body moves back. Nice one. You are now ready to plane or head upwind and will hopefully be dry.   “Try to approach and gain control during each phase. The animated / movie sequences will help with visualization, check out the FUNDAMENTALS of front to sail and sailing clew first“     View video of this move: Low bandwidth [MPEG, 0.3MB] High bandwidth [MPEG, 0.9MB]               John Skye K-57 “This move is the most important move anyone can learn. It is the basis of the spock, the flaka and also nearly all other combinations of moves. The key is to keep the back hand tucked in to the body and the front hand extended. Learn this well and you are ready for everything!!”         Ben Proffitt K-800 “Make sure it’s not too windy otherwise you’ll probably end up chopping your legs off with the mast.”           Robby Swift K-89 “Helicopter tricks are cool because it is a way of turning around while keeping upwind and still looking cool! They are actually easier than normal tacks when there is a lull and you have to turn around not planing.”         Phil Horrocks K-303 “Start on the land, then on a big board and finish on a little board! swifty foot work is key and it’s the feet that have to change before the sail otherwise you get in a backwinded pickle and fall! so get those feet sorted first.”

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/heli-tack-v2/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/slalom-gybe/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/slalom-gybe/#comments Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:37:32 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Slalom Gybe by Micah Buzianis The high speed slalom gybe is made easier with flat water. However, you can make it easier on yourself if you are selective about the spot where you will gybe. If you are in a race and have to gybe around a buoy, then at least time it so you can initiate the turn off a swell. These next few tips should help you to control your gybes better and make them more efficient during a race. Location: South Africa, Cape Town Board: JP Slalom 114 Sail: Neil Pryde RS6 7.8 Wind: 12-22 knots Water: Flat to small chop       Hot tips: When race gybing, don’t lean your sail over too far, try to keep big movements to a minimum If the water is really smooth, you can go from full speed and just bear off hard into your turn to cut some of your speed Make sure you are finishing your gybe right at the mark Bear off after you pass the mark to pick up speed quickly   Download Video: Win [2.1MB] Mac [2.14MB] [512k Video Stream - Audio OFF]   You will require the latest Flash Player for the clip above:

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/slalom-gybe/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/tack-shortboard/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/tack-shortboard/#comments Fri, 28 Sep 2012 14:37:32 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Short Board Tack Tacking is the new gybing. It really is such a useful move; Intermediates can use it as a way to keep upwind giving them ground to try gybes, Wavesailors use it absolutely heaps and its by far the best way of turning in gusty or light winds as you can then use the upwind advantage to try and get planing. If you are sailing short boards and not tacking then you might want to seriously reconsider your sailing goals. The key parts draw heavily upon the light wind version and therefore with a floaty board you can get in a lot of practice to assist you in achieving the carving tack.   KEY PARTS Entrance – Unhooking and carving the board upwind from a low position until almost at head to wind. Transition – The action of moving around the front of the mast and getting your feet and hands in position on the new side. Exit – Steering the board off the wind and getting ready to take on power on the new beam reach PRACTICE Light wind tacks – aim to gain proficiency in all parts of the tack and get that hand and foot work uber slick. Front to sail and then coming back through the wind – Either from stepping round, front to sail or from going through the wind like in a heli tack. This is a great drill for when you step around a little bit earlier in lighter winds. (This will be covered in another feature.) FUNDAMENTALS Look where you want to go – As with most moves, the head is the key as it orients you and assists in moving your body, hips and feet. From looking forward and upwind going in, to looking back down the board for the foot switch to looking forward in the exit. The head is paramount. Rig away– As the rig goes back in the entrance of the tack, the body moves forward. When transitioning around the mast, the rig is kept away to give you SPACE to move through. Finally, the rig comes forward and across to bear you away as your body moves back and down.        ENTRANCE From your blasting position, pick a spot with some flat water and start to head upwind.     From heading upwind you are bringing the rig back and body forward in anticipation of reaching up the boom or to the mast. Look forwards and upwind.     From hooked in reach to the front of the boom or low down on the mast as here. Keep low to maintain a flat board and your backhand will be right up next to the back harness line.     Unhook by pulling the boom towards you and keep low. The back foot comes out and goes up to the front strap as the front foot goes to step forward. The rig is going back as the body moves forward anticipating the drop in power. Begin to carve upwind.     Get the front foot forward of the mastfoot aiming to wrap it right round. Keep low and continue bringing the rig back and body forward. The hips are swinging forwards to unweight the back foot ready for the switch. Look forwards and upwind ready for head to wind. Straighten the front arm to keep the rig away.    TRANSITION At or just before head to wind start to look back ready for the hand and foot change. Get your front foot wrapped right round the mast foot.  The rig is still back and the hips are well forward.     Here we go think release, reach and pivot. Release your backhand and reach for the new side of the boom with old backhand. This will lead your old back foot coming forward and assist the foot pivot.     The head now LOOKS FORWARD, this is very important and will make the move! Get your new back foot well down the board.       Looking forward will assist your front arm in drawing the sail forward, which keeps the rig away and readies you for bearing away. The rig is now moving forward and across you as the body begins to move back and down. The front foot will already be pushing the nose off the wind.   EXIT With both hands well down the boom get the rig forwards and across you. The feet are now scissoring, with the heel of the front foot pushing and the back foot pulling the tail upwind, in order to bear you away. Get down low and you are good to go!       Keep twisting the rig forwards and across and scissoring the board.     View video of this move: Download Video: Win [1.97MB] Mac [1.84MB] Assess the wind and either go upwind non-planing or get into your early planing position. Nice one!   A planing board is a stable board, so enter the tack with speed and you will get most of the way around before dropping off the plane. Make sure you practice on both tacks.  There’s no glory in being one sided!!     SUMMARY Head upwind from blasting Reach for the mast or front of boom Unhook and get feet out of straps Carve upwind on heels Rig comes back and body goes forward Start and keep low throughout whilst looking forward At head to wind look back and reach to new side of boom Pivot the feet Get new back foot well down the board as you look forward Rig goes forwards and across you to bear you away Body moves back and down The legs can now scissor to assist in steering Stay low and off you go FAULT ANALYSIS   Board is unsettled and loses speed in carve upwind – Get down low and unhook efficiently and then gradually carve on heels. Get stuck on old side – swing your weight forwards to take weight off back foot ready for switch. Get thrown off front – Keep the rig back and away No space on new side – look forward and draw rig forwards through front arm to keep the rig away Board gets stuck at head to wind after foot change – scissor board off wind with feet Get pulled over by rig on exit – get down James brown with the rig forward and body back.  “Failure is the first step on the road to success!”  - Jem Hall, May 2006.

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/tack-shortboard/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/speed-technique-finian-maynard-video/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/speed-technique-finian-maynard-video/#comments Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:37:32 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

Let’s talk SPEED – Exclusive!! This month we have world speed record holder Finian Maynard on the box.	Download Video: Win [9.58MB] Mac [13.82MB]

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/speed-technique-finian-maynard-video/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-rig-clearing/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-rig-clearing/#comments Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:37:33 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

Jem Hall’s tips on Water Start Rig Clearing View the flash video to learn from the master…     Enlarge

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-rig-clearing/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-flipped-over/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-flipped-over/#comments Mon, 10 Sep 2012 14:37:33 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Flipped Over Waterstart In continuation of our waterstart series we come to the very useful flipped over waterstart. You may have been in this position before, the rig is flying and your board is flipped or you are trying to make a quick get away in the waves. I sometimes find myself in this position after tacks or shoddy vulcans. The ability to start in this position increases our sailing time and our efficiency. Should you be in the waves, it may also be the difference between getting away swiftly and a pounding!    Foundation Whilst we are aiming to complete all our moves and stay upright it doesn’t always go to plan. Therefore, as we improve we also fall more efficiently thereby keeping the rig flying.  Try extending your arms and / or scissoring the board so you are in an easier position to start from. An efficient regular waterstart also aids this move. Please refer to the previous article back in August for a recap. Fundamentals Look where you want to go – We are aiming to be pulled forward and in doing so, we must look at the mast foot to get up and away. Rig away - In order to be pulled from the water, the rig is pushed away through extended arms that are shoulder width apart. Key Stages Recovered or flying rig – Ideally, you should aim to extend your arms and get the board across the wind as you fall, in order to keep the rig flying.  If this is not possible, the rig can be recovered either by swimming into the wind and releasing it, or flying it from the tip should it get submerged. Board Positioning – The board is across and just slightly into the wind to prevent it from slipping downwind. The absence of any resistance and having both legs on the board means it all goes downwind rather rapidly, pointing closer to the wind controls this. Up and away with a flip – Arms extend and rig pulls you forwards and in, whilst board is flipped with deft footwork.       Recovering or flying rig Check wind direction and recover or try and keep the rig flying whilst you fall off the board. Arms are shoulder width and down the boom. Board positioning Position yourself so that the board is slightly into the wind. You should be well away from the board and under the boom.     Your feet go either side of the mastfoot on the rail closest to you. The back foot is between the straps and the front foot is just in front of the mastfoot. Try to get the downwind rail of the board to ‘bite’ slightly into the water which will help initiate the board flip.   Up and away with a flip As you come up, the feet begin to flip the board over by pushing down through the balls of the feet.       The rig is powered up by scissoring the board as both feet slip down the board and onto the centreline.     From here you can continue to come up with your feet as they are, or reposition them in the normal waterstart position.     Carry on getting up and away through extended arms and a bent back leg.     View video of this move: Low bandwidth [MPEG, 538KB] High bandwidth [MPEG, 1.54MB]   Get back into your ‘getting planing’ stance and keep looking forward. Great move and so much less messing about!    Keep the board pointing into wind more than in a normal waterstart which prevents it from slipping sideways too much. To initiate the board flip, it is important that the downwind rail ‘bites’ into the water slightly.  This prevents the board slipping sideways and helps to flip it over.     Summary Keep the rig flying or recover it Board is slightly into the wind Feet either side of mastfoot on the nearest rail Get the downwind rail to ‘bite’ slightly into the water Come up and flip board over with feet Slip feet down the board into their sailing position Rig powered up through extended arms and a bent back leg Work it! Jamie Lever GBR-5 “If you sail in waves, you need to learn this move!  When your kit gets washed by a wave, it almost always turns the board upside down.  Being able to do this move will allow you to get up and away before the next wave gets you. “         Lucy Horwood GBR-95 “With small feet and wide boards, I find it essential to get the downwind rail of the board to bite into the water to help me turn the board over.  I do this by sheeting in slightly to lift my body and then I push down hard on the upwind rail with my feet to sink the rail into the water.”

]]> http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start-flipped-over/feed/ 0 http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start/ http://www.boardseekermag.com/technique/water-start/#comments Mon, 03 Sep 2012 14:37:33 +0000 boardseeker ?p=1

The Water Start The waterstart is one of the gateway skills; it opens up so much more of our great sport. I still remember my first waterstart and the elation that followed. The reason for this move is that we arrive on the board in the sailing position and it is a more efficient way of getting going in stronger winds and bumpy waters. It is a key skill for our progression down to sailing smaller kit.   FOUNDATION The skill is built from having a strong proficiency in beachstarts. From here a range of drills, including sailing and dragging one leg in the water, sailing kneeling down and sailing one handed helps us to move closer to our goal. These drills can be interspersed through your sailing sessions and a bit of feedback, coaching and video footage can speed up the process LET’S STEP UP The waterstart can be broken down into smaller goals or stepping stones. These being: Beach start Deeper water beach start Beach start with leg drag Chest depth windy beach start Full waterstart joy FUNDAMENTALS Look where you want to go: We need to move forward and in so we look at the mast foot to get up and away. Rig away: In order for the rig to have the leverage to pull us out of the water the rig is away through extended arms that are shoulder width apart. KEY STAGES Rig recovery: Getting the rig out of the water Board Positioning: Bringing the board across the wind in a suitable position Up and away: Exiting the water and arriving in the sailing position.       RIG RECOVERY Check wind direction and ensure the mast is across the wind with board pointing into the wind.   Swim backwards to release water off the rig and draw air under it.   Pull rig over your head and into the wind and place backhand on the boom.   BOARD POSITIONING Transfer front hand onto boom. Bear board away by pushing down through an extended front arm.     Your body will be moving towards the back of the board as your front arm is extended and bearing board away. You should feel all the pull down through the front side of your body.   UP AND AWAY Lounging in the sweet spot. Your front leg will be extended down in the water. The rig is above you, low if windy and higher if it’s light. If you are well powered manoeuvre the board slightly upwind. If it’s lighter, point the board downwind for more power. You will be at the back of the board BUT well upwind of it.     You are now ready for action. The back foot is placed between the straps with the heel down and towards the windward rail, toes up. Arms are extended and you are ensuring the board is in the right position.     Action. Pull board in with a bent back leg from your upwind lounging position. The arms are extended and you are looking/eating the mastfoot. Kick your front leg vigorously for extra propulsion upwards.     Keep extending the front armand pull in with the back arm whilst kicking hard with the front leg. The front leg is placed relatively late on the board. Remember you are pulling your back heel to your bottom.     Stay low and keep the back leg bent, as you do not want to go out the front door!     View video of this move: Low bandwidth [MPEG, 0.6MB] High bandwidth [MPEG, 1.8MB]   Get efficient and begin planing by LOOKING FORWARD, maintaining a FLAT BOARD and keep the RIG AWAY. Now get very excited!   Rig recovery across and into the wind Position the board in the sweet spot Pull board under bottom with bent back leg Extend those arms Look at and eat that mastfoot Stay low and keep back leg bent     SUMMARY Believe, focus and enjoy!       Ben Proffitt K-800 “When it’s super windy, I put both my feet into the straps just before I waterstart. But you need to have a solid water start before you do this otherwise you’ll just slip sideways.”         Terry Luxton K-688 “If the wind is too light or your sail has sunk, swim to the top of the mast and lift up the rig and then work your way down the mast.”

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