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The Carve Gybe:  Part 1 - The Entry

To get you all revved up for the new season we are going to look at the carve gybe.

For many people, this is the first planing move they tackle and as such its no wonder that it presents such a stumbling block to most.

This move is no mystery however and can actually be tackled in a relatively short time if learned correctly.

A successful carve gybing technique comes from building up an armory of skills that can be called upon during execution of the gybe. Many of these skills have been covered in previous technique features.

 
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PREPARATION

  • The gybe draws strongly from having an efficient and fast blasting stance, so check out the sailing one-handed technique.
  • The footwork and rig transition draw upon the skills learnt in the light wind gybe.
  • Proficiency in clew first sailing will pay huge dividends in your gybing success rate, as it will be called upon at the exit.
  • Lastly, one of the best practice drills for the carve gybe is the dry gybe - you dont even have to get you hair wet!

This month we are looking at the skills needed in  – The carve gybe entrance. Never has it been so true that ‘by failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.’ This is the crux of the move.

KEY STAGES

  • Set-up and carving: Unhooking, hanging off the boom and taking the back foot out of the strap whilst maintaining speed. Then scissoring the board downwind to sail the first third of the turn. Lastly, coming over the inside rail and dropping into the turn.
  • Foot change and rig transition
  • Exit

FUNDAMENTALS

Look where you want to go – Look ahead whilst unhooking and hanging off the boom and then look downwind as you get the board up to speed. This will keep your speed and allow you to see the wind, water state and check out your sailing direction.

Board flat – Flat is fast and speed is the vital ingredient for gybe completion. This is mainly achieved by dropping your hips down low through a bent back leg and extended front leg. The body is outboard to pull down on the boom.

Rig away –Maintaining your distance from the rig on an extended front arm will keep up your board speed, as your weight will be on the rig.

Scissoring the board – The board is steered downwind to get the speed up by pushing through an extended front leg whilst the back leg pulls in. This will get you to sail the first part of the turn.

THE ACTION

 
 
 
 

From a beam reach, look forwards and slide the backhand down the boom (30 – 45cm). Then give the rig a quick pull towards you to unhook. Drop your hips through a bent back leg with the front leg extending to keep the board flat. Keep the sail sheeted in through leaning out and down whilst the mast is kept away on an extended front arm. Just imagine sitting on a comfy bar stool.

 

With the board settled and sailing fast start to turn the board downwind to a broad reach by looking downwind. Scissoring your legs, pushing with the front leg and pulling in with the back one will perform the steering. The body remains out and down.

 



Take the back foot out of the strap and place right just in front (but touching) the back strap on the centreline.

 
 

Get the board settled down and continue sailing downwind. From this angle you can see that front hand is back down the boom, near or next to the front harness line. This positioning is vital to powering up your gybes and carving. My hips have risen slightly as I am going through a lull. Really concentrate on getting this part fast and smooth.

 
CARVING

The back foot now slides across to the downwind rail. Pull in with your backhand and extend the front arm as your hips come across the board to drop over the inside / carving rail. Maintain looking downwind. 

 
 

The hips continue moving across the board as you begin to sink them down and back. The back foot pressure is constant but increasing. The backhand is gently pulling in whilst the front arm is extended (huge tip!) in order to put power down through the mastfoot. All of these actions will keep the board speed up and make it carve smoothly.

 
 

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Really drop into the carve now by sinking down through the rear hip and pushing hard through increasing back foot pressure. The sail is now lent into the turn as that extended front arm pulls you into the centrifuge. Check out the subtle increase in board wake.

 

Hot Tip

  • The faster you enter the gybe, the easier it is to keep planing.
  • Your knees should be bent to nearly 90 degrees - crouch down now and see how extreme that feels!
 
 

SUMMARY

  • Look forward
  • Back hand down the boom and unhook
  • Hang off the boom
  • Look and scissor the board downwind
  • Keep hanging with a very bent back leg and extended front arm
  • Back foot out
  • Come across the board and drop your hips into the carve
  • Sink down hard with the rear hip whilst the mast is away on an extended front arm
  • Increase that back foot pressure
  • Start to look out of the turn

You can do this and you will. When I am going for a new move or looking to improve, I try to be focussed, relaxed and most importantly have belief.

Next month we move on to examine the foot change and rig transition.

ENJOY!

Help is at hand for this and many more moves from simple to sublime. Get yourself on to an overseas clinic with Jem and let him unlock your potential. www.jemhall.com 

     

Jamie Lever GBR-5

"Try to choose a flat patch of water to initiate your gybe. Even when the sea is rough, you can always find a flat patch between the waves to gybe in."

 
     

Lucy Horwood GBR-95

"Try to be as light footed as possible when taking your back foot out of the strap.  If you stamp around like an elephant, you have no chance of planing out of your gybes."

 
     

Ben Proffitt K-800

"Dont think too much about the rig, just try to carve the board as efficiently as possible, just like a surfer would."

 
     

For any windsurfing technique queries, feel free to contact Jem on:
jem@jemhall.com or visit www.jemhall.com

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